Review: IDI’s 3 Day International Skincare Techniques Course

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Sorry it’s taken me so long to write a new post or write a review on my experience at the IDI. I fell out of the groove of writing for a bit but now I’m back…the following review was written the day after I completed the class but I’m just posting here for everyone to read.

4/26/12:

I just completed the International Dermal Institute’s 3 Day International Skincare Techniques course. I like that I received a discount from having attended undergrad student day last year, so the class was $265 instead of $365. I wasn’t sure what to expect but I imagined learning new techniques that I hadn’t learned in school, something specific to an international style not typically used here in the states, especially considering the name of the course. But I discovered the true purpose of this class is to teach their way of cleansing & massaging during a facial. That’s basically all it was.

DAY 1:

On Day 1, we had some theory reviewing the basics – skin layers etc, before watching Deidre (the instructor) demo a cleanse & then having us repeatedly practice it on each other. I used Dermalogica in school so I’m very familiar with their product line but the yellow sponges they use felt much rougher than the kind I buy. You might think that’s a minor thing to note but when it’s being used on your skin repeatedly each day for three consecutive days, it’s not such a small thing after all.

There was homework on Day 1: watch the DVD included with our fee & practice the cleanse steps for Day 2 when we would also learn the 20 minute facial massage because we’d have to put it all together for the test on Day 3.

As I’ve mentioned in earlier posts, my skin is acneic & breaks out easily. I had 2 new pimples when I woke up for class on Day 2, despite being clear at the start of day 1. If you have acne & you know how long it can take to clear it up, you can imagine I wasn’t in the best mood at this point.

DAY 2:

There was more theory on Day 2 along with learning & practicing both the cleanse from Day 1 & their 20 minute massage routine using Dermalogica’s Massage Cream. (unless a client has really dry skin, I opt for the Oil Free Massage saving the Massage Cream for hands only but Deidre had everyone use the Massage Cream so we did as instructed)

My skin started to feel raw by the end of Day 2 so I had my partner (Staigen had registered for the class before I did so we partnered after I signed up) skip my decollete because it was literally stinging.

Homework for Day 2 included watching the DVD & practicing both the cleanse & massage at home + an easy paper on skincare basics & the Dermalogica line. A classmate told me she had to work that evening & had no time for the homework so she asked if the steps would be on the board during our test & Deidre advised yes, we would have the steps on the board to follow along during the “test”. This was a big relief given all we were expected to learn in two days. I really wish she had taken the time to set this expectation on Day 1, as she never mentioned it but made it seem like the assessment was based on steps we had to know off-hand!

I’m not sure if it was her first time teaching this class because she ran short on time more than once causing us to have to rush a bit. When asked, she also said we would not receive certificates at the end of the course but then we were stopped by the elevator as we headed home on day 3 & instructed by the front desk girl that she still needed to print & hand out our certificates so maybe Deidre was new to teaching this course, who knows.

going back, back, BACK to school agaaiin!

Oh how I love Grease. I have no idea how many times I’ve seen it but I know it’s a lot. As I was thinking up this post, that song from the opening scene came to mind:

 

 

I might not be a Pink Lady (one can always hope) but I am for sure going back to school today. I enrolled in the International Skincare Techniques class at IDI. It’s their premiere class for post-graduates and licensed professional estheticians. Once you complete the class, (which also happens to be their most expensive), you can then move on to the others which will undoubtedly refer back to the basics learned during the course.

I’m excited and will definitely report back to let you know how the weeks goes.

Remember, continuing your education is key in this industry and should not only matter for renewing your license but also for your own interest and skill advancement.

Anti-Aging Ingredients: What You Need To Know

 

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Aging. Kind of an ugly world in the beauty industry. Seems no one wants to embrace it and a big bulk of our business relies on helping clients fight it.

Fine lines, crows feet, sagging skin – none of these things are ever or will ever be trendy. Celebs lead the way in looking amazing for their age and the everyday woman wants the same results and will spend whatever it takes to achieve it. So as new beauty professionals, how can we become quickly familiar with what to offer and knowledgeable about what works?

Here are the top anti-aging ingredients to become familiar with and look for in effective products. Because skin care lines might look different in terms of packaging, marketing and price but as long as you have a solid understanding of the ingredient list, you can work confidently with any line:

AHA AND BHA

What it does: Smoothes the skin.

Best for: AHAs are best for normal-to-dry or sun-damaged skin because they help bind moisture and improve healthy collagen production and smooth an uneven skin texture. BHA is best for normal-to-oily or breakout-prone skin while also being excellent for reducing redness from rosacea.

Products to try:
DHC Renewing AHA Cream, $39
Olay Regenerist Night Resurfacing Elixir, $22.49
Neutrogena Oil-Free Acne Stress Control Night Cleansing Pads, $7.99
Paula’s Choice 1% Beta Hydroxy Acid Gel, $18.95

 

RETINOL

What it does: Simply put, it helps skin cells create better, healthier skin cells while increasing the amount of skin-support substances [and] has been shown to increase the skin’s collagen production and glycosaminoglycans content, resulting in firmer skin with an improved texture and enhanced barrier function.

Products to try:
BeautiControl Regeneration Overnight Retinol Recovery Serum, $45
RoC Multi-Correxion Night Treatment, $24.99

 

VITAMIN C

What it does: It has been shown to increase collagen production (including dermal collagen, which is significant for wrinkle reduction), reduce the appearance of skin discolorations, strengthen skin’s barrier response, enhance skin’s repair process, reduce inflammation and help skin better withstand exposure to sunlight, whether protected by sunscreen or not.

Products to try:
Dr. Brandt Lineless Vitamin C Serum, $75
Cosmedicine Triple P Serum Daily Advanced Care Antioxidant and Multi-Nutrient Treatment, $65

 

VITAMIN E

What it does: It works in several different ways including helping to protect cell membranes from oxidative damage and preventing collagen from being destroyed. It also works in powerful synergy with vitamin C. Vitamin E on an ingredient label may be listed as tocopheryl acetate, tocopheryl linoleate, tocotrienols, alpha tocopherol and tocopheryl succinate.

Products to try:
Mary Kay TimeWise Even Complexion Essence, $35
MAC Studio Moisture Fix SPF 15, $29.50
Paula’s Choice Skin Recovery Toner, $15.95

 

NIACINAMIDE

What it does: This component of vitamin B3 has been shown to increase ceramide and free fatty acid levels in skin, prevent skin from losing water content and stimulate microcirculation in the dermis. It also has a growing reputation for being able to lighten skin discolorations and reduce acne.

Products to try:
CeraVe Facial Moisturizing Lotion PM, $13.99
Olay Regenerist Regenerating Serum, $19.49

 

GREEN TEA

What it does: The antioxidant components work to reduce inflammation, build collagen and reduce cell damage by impeding the harmful effects of sun exposure. EGCG, when found in cosmetics, is a more potent, stable way to get the antioxidant benefit on skin.

Products to try:
Bobbi Brown Intensive Skin Supplement, $65
Olay Total Effects 7-in-1 Anti-Aging Booster Instant Smoothing Serum, $30.99

 

RESVERATROL

What it does: Like any antioxidant, resveratrol has incredible protective benefits for skin. When applied topically, resveratrol protects against sun damage, improves collagen synthesis and reduces cell damage. It is a stable, potent antioxidant worth finding in a skin care product.

Products to try:
ReserveAge Organics Resveratrol Cellular Age-Defying Tonic, $24.99
Caudalie Premier Cru La Crème, $150

 

GRAPE SEED

What it does: This antioxidant significantly reduces free-radical damage [and] combining it with other antioxidants greatly enhances its efficacy. It also has wound-healing properties. For fighting wrinkles, it is one of the top superstars.

Products to try:
Caudalie Paris Vinosource Riche Anti-Wrinkle Ultra Nourishing Cream, $50
Estee Lauder Perfectionist CP+ Wrinkle Lifting Serum, $55

 

CURCUMINOIDS

What it does: Found in the spice tumeric, it has potent anti-inflammatory properties, both internally and externally. It also works to suppress excess melanin production in the presence of sunlight and will help “chronic inflammation, irritation and sun damage that causes skin to look older and become less able to repair itself.

Products to try: Osmotics TriCeram, $32
Clinique Continuous Rescue Antioxidant Moisturizer, $42.50

 

SOY ISOFLAVONES/ EXTRACT

What they do: Soy and its components have an amazing amount of research showing them to be powerful antioxidants that are extremely beneficial for skin. Studies show that these derivatives inhibit environmental damage, reduce irritation, improve skin texture, build collagen and fight sun damage.

Products to try:
Replenix Purifying Antioxidant Foaming Cleanser, $23
Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Hydra-Pure Intense Moisture Cream, $150

 

CERAMIDES

What they do: They make up about 20 percent of the skin’s intercellular matrix, the ‘glue’ that holds skin cells together, [and] helping skin maintain its appearance while protecting it. When your skin suffers from sun damage, a dry environment or irritating skin care products, ceramides decrease, leaving the skin vulnerable, [therefore,] replenishing the skin’s ceramide content is a powerful way to protect skin, helping it act and look younger.

Products to try:
CeraVe Facial Moisturizing Lotion AM With SPF 30, $11.99
Elizabeth Arden Ceramide Gold Ultra Restorative Capsules, $68

 

LINOLEIC/ LINOLENIC ACIDS/ PHOSPHOLIPIDS

What they do: These fatty acids replenish the skin’s intercellular matrix, preserving its appearance. In addition she states that, all of them function as cell-communicating ingredients, working to ‘tell’ the appropriate skin cells how to function in a healthier manner. They also help reduce inflammation, believed to be a key factor in how the skin ages.

Products to try:
MD Formulations Moisture Defense Antioxidant Lotion, $50
Rodan + Fields Soothe Anti-Redness Skin Protectant Cream, $80

 

 

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The Consultation – Optional?

 

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I’d think not. But then again….

As esthetic students, the importance of conducting a consultation with new & old clients alike is very important. We are taught to include a consult, even a brief one with every client, even when practicing on each other or cosmetology students. EVERYONE had a form on file – if new, they had to complete a new form (front & back) and if repeaters, they had to look over their consultation form and update & initial for any changes.

The consult is key to determining the needs of the client because let’s face it, not everyone knows off the top of their head exactly what their skin needs or why they need it. A client with concerns about hydration might fail to realize all those highly fragranced face & body products are actually stripping their skin of moisture. A teen client with complaints of hairline breakouts might not make the connection between her hair products and those annoying blemishes. The consult allows us to find out key info about the clients daily regimen, diseases (if any) or special needs such joint pain and medications that might prevent them from receiving certain treatments or bring caution to allergic reactions with ingredients used.

A consultation takes place once the client completes the form that further establishes the treatment they will receive. Because what the client wants is not always what they need.

I had a client insisting on microdermabrasion for no other reason than her interest was peaked upon reading an article in a magazine. She had open blemishes from having picked at her skin and some acne scarring as well. She was excited about attending her brothers wedding in a few weeks and wanted to heal her skin fast. During our consult, I explained that microderm could further irritate her acne and positioned the benefits of a gentle peel instead. She agreed and returned to me for a facial the week before the wedding. Her skin showed great signs of improvement.

As I reflect on my own spa experiences over the last few decades, I don’t recall having detailed consults prior to a facial or even a peel I had at a med-spa shortly after beauty school. A brief convo took place (after I was on the bed) and the peel was applied, albeit it was a gentle peel but still! I was surprised by this and a little concerned actually.

While estheticians are not doctors, we are involved in the business of touch and there is a lot of responsibility involved in the machinery/tools used and ingredients applied to skin. Our business relies on customer satisfaction and if a bad reaction occurs, there goes business. Of course, everything can’t be controlled but knowledge and education are key. The more I know about my clients skin, habits, lifestyle and conditions – the better quality of service I am able to offer.

A consult is the key that holds all of that information and documentation of that information is my guide for treatment along with a method of protection for any reactions that might occur due to information not provided to me. No one wants to engage in a battle of ‘she said, she said’ in the treatment room.

So be sure to include consultations even after graduating from beauty school and working in the real world. It’s a source of credibility for you and a guide in the treatment process for your clients.

 

Sweet Pea

The Makeup Show

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Last June, I attended The Makeup Show with a few of my classmates and Miss Trish. It was a great experience & the first time the event was held in my city. I met Reggie Wells (Oprah’s makeup artist & many others) there & he demo’d his latest product (HissyFit) using me as a model & we chatted for about 45min afterward. He’s hilarious, blunt & a lot of fun!

Reggie Wells introducing hissyfit

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I only purchased a few items because my makeup needs aren’t as grand as my skincare. Don’t get me wrong, I love makeup but at the time I was more in need of essentials like quality makeup brushes than anything else so I purchased several from Crown Brushes. There were no freebies at the Makeup Show but I understood the reasoning. The Makeup Show  is frequented by makeup artists, real pros that know what they’re doing & what they want. The number of chicly made up, gorgeous faces walking around that place let you know these ladies & gents mean business. And that’s probably why there were so many celeb makeup artists on the floor, representing their brands as opposed to the Beauty Show where booths were occupied by employees of the brands but not the creators themselves.

The Makeup Show definitely feels more like an industry insider event. Last year, I met Sam Fine, Danessa Myricks & some others. It was quite spectacular & unlike The Beauty Show, there was less pomp & frills filling the aisles. There were makeup demos going on & body airbrushing too. How those girls stand around naked like that is amazing! I mean, sure, they’re technically covered in airbrush art designed to look like they have clothes on but naked is naked honey! Those are some amazing airbrush artists indeed!

So if you haven’t attended The Makeup Show yet, visit the website & check it out & see if they’re coming to your city.

Airbrushed models at The Makeup Show

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Buy your milk in plastic or glass bottles? Here’s a safety tip…

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Milk exposed to fluorescent light at the grocery store for just four hours can lose nutritional value & develop an oxidized, burnt flavor.. yuck!

Buy it in paper cartons  - or choose the jug all the way in the back.

Benefits of Licensure

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One thing that’s rarely ever mentioned (on esthetic blogs, forums, etc) is the beauty discount that comes along with professional licensure. While I’m sure I knew it existed, though just never really paid it any mind because it didn’t apply to me until now, it’s one of the best perks of becoming a licensed beauty professional. It really is.

Who doesn’t love a good discount? I mean, have you ever turned down the beauty clubs offered by Ulta, Sally’s or Sephora? No, because some discount is better than none at all right? As a licensed pro, your Sally’s discount improves and you get to join the ranks of hair stylists, nail technicians and estheticians alike who have the exclusive privilege of shopping at professional beauty stores. Even though my speciality is skin care, I love buying the overpriced shampoo carried by my stylist for a fraction of the cost along with hair color & skin care items. I have discount cards with three pro stores (which includes every pro store in my area)  and the savings are sweet.

Another sweet treat of licensure – - – the beauty shows!

Ted Gibson speaking at 2011 American Beauty Show

Last year, my class attended The American Beauty Show as a field trip with our school. It was an all day adventure held at a huge conference center with hundreds of vendors and celebrity stylists and brands putting on hair shows and demo sessions. I left there with so many freebies, I was glad my instructor encouraged us to bring our luggage bags with wheels on the bottom because we certainly needed them. A highlight was the student assembly held at the start of the day, where Ted Gibson graced us with a wonderfully motivating speech about his start in the beauty industry and how much he enjoys living out his passion.

Lots of freebies & a few purchases from the 2011 American Beauty Show

The 'stilt-girls' parading around the 2011 American Beauty Show

While I really wish there was a major beauty show that specifically focused on skin care in the same way the hair vendors were highlighted, I enjoyed the adjoining Face & Body show held right across the way at the same place. It’s much less exciting on the Face & Body side, much more quiet & rarely any freebies at all. I really don’t understand why no freebies, considering there are a few lesser known vendors that take part each year and often with higher than moderate prices. The best way to get your product out there and increase sales is by providing free samples for professionals to try at home. I’m sayin’.

 

I was particularly excited about this year’s show, held last month at the same huge conference center as last year. I was happy to be able to select the day I wanted to attend, where as last year, we had to attend on Monday’s designated ‘Student Day’ (it’s a three-day event). I had planned on attending with Snarksun and Staigen but it ended up being just Staigen & me. We headed out early, around 8am and had the darndest time finding the place & choosing a spot to park but once we were inside, all that frustration disappeared.

 

Here are some of the goodies I scored at the show:

FHI Heat Platform Series Styling Iron – 4/10 size

My stylist uses this flat-iron to straighten my roots before flat ironing with an iron by Salon Tech. I knew I wanted to buy it but opted to wait until the show to see if I could find it for less than $100 (best online price I found). I purchased this directly from FHI’s booth for $80.

Creative Nail Design Programmable UV Lamp Shellac

I hadn’t planned on making this purchase for some time. I’d grown tired of paying $60 for a Shellac manicure every two weeks. Only reason I allowed it during school was because it took the work out of keeping my nails manicured (which for the record, I am not good at doing) plus it was a tax write-off (my hands are my tools after all) but after I completed school & didn’t land a job immediately, I couldn’t see continuing to pay the cost, even though my nail tech is AH’MAZING! Seriously.

 

So, I decided to look into what I’d need to complete the process at home & made a lil wish list of items for future reference. I knew I was going to stop by CND‘s booth to check out their Cuticle Away & Kanga Nail Files but as I noticed a crowd of women circling a display filled with their UV Lamps & another display loaded up with big boxes featuring a large glossy & gorgeously polished nail, I had to know what the buzz was about. The sales girl said they were offering the UV Lamp + 6 Polishes including a Base & Top Coat, DVD, brochure, 6 Shellac Remover Wrap Packs & salon window cling all for $150 (the retail price for the lamp).

 

 

I had to do some quick math, because I’d found the CND UV Lamp online for $106 & the Base & Top Coats for $18 each. That alone would cost me $140, not including any colors or removal wraps. Hmmmm. I had priced all the colors I wanted at $225 total & a few of them were included in the 6 colors. Didn’t take but a second for me to realize the best choice to make.

Can’t wait to try my first home shellac mani & see how it turns out.

After leaving the Hair side & checking out the Face & Body side of things, I was thrilled to see the PCA Skin Care booth. I chatted up their director, whom I met twice before & told her how I’d wished I had known they were going to be there as I had just spent a pretty penny on several PCA items online. Though now that I think about it, I’m not sure whether the prices would have been much different, seeing as how I comparison shopped before making my online purchases. She asked if I’d become certified yet in PCA & I honestly told her that I want to but can’t really afford their 4-day $1800 class at the moment. She then offered me the option of taking the first day of the class to become certified. I couldn’t resist, the savings were worth it so I signed up right then & there. She signed me up & gave me a free trial skin care kit of my choosing, along with (my beloved) Sensi Peel kit & After Peel Kit for free. Talk about an awesome deal! The kits alone make up the price I paid for the class. I was so glad to have run into her there. She’s awesome!

 

 

I’ve been tempted to try Hair Rules products for some time now but just can’t bring myself to buy one more hair product with a cabinet full of stuff I still need to use. The representative at the Hair Rules booth was so knowledgeable & informative with hair similar to Staigen’s, so she purchased their shampoo & conditioner to try out. The discount was nice but I had spent enough so I had to pass. I was, however, provided several samples to try at home along with a few cute buttons praising the joy of curly, kinky or wavy hair – the target market for Hair Rules.

 

 

And with that, I bid you adieu, leaving you with this adorable Hair Rules – Dancing Curls video: