going back, back, BACK to school agaaiin!

Oh how I love Grease. I have no idea how many times I’ve seen it but I know it’s a lot. As I was thinking up this post, that song from the opening scene came to mind:

 

 

I might not be a Pink Lady (one can always hope) but I am for sure going back to school today. I enrolled in the International Skincare Techniques class at IDI. It’s their premiere class for post-graduates and licensed professional estheticians. Once you complete the class, (which also happens to be their most expensive), you can then move on to the others which will undoubtedly refer back to the basics learned during the course.

I’m excited and will definitely report back to let you know how the weeks goes.

Remember, continuing your education is key in this industry and should not only matter for renewing your license but also for your own interest and skill advancement.

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Anti-Aging Ingredients: What You Need To Know

 

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Aging. Kind of an ugly world in the beauty industry. Seems no one wants to embrace it and a big bulk of our business relies on helping clients fight it.

Fine lines, crows feet, sagging skin – none of these things are ever or will ever be trendy. Celebs lead the way in looking amazing for their age and the everyday woman wants the same results and will spend whatever it takes to achieve it. So as new beauty professionals, how can we become quickly familiar with what to offer and knowledgeable about what works?

Here are the top anti-aging ingredients to become familiar with and look for in effective products. Because skin care lines might look different in terms of packaging, marketing and price but as long as you have a solid understanding of the ingredient list, you can work confidently with any line:

AHA AND BHA

What it does: Smoothes the skin.

Best for: AHAs are best for normal-to-dry or sun-damaged skin because they help bind moisture and improve healthy collagen production and smooth an uneven skin texture. BHA is best for normal-to-oily or breakout-prone skin while also being excellent for reducing redness from rosacea.

Products to try:
DHC Renewing AHA Cream, $39
Olay Regenerist Night Resurfacing Elixir, $22.49
Neutrogena Oil-Free Acne Stress Control Night Cleansing Pads, $7.99
Paula’s Choice 1% Beta Hydroxy Acid Gel, $18.95

 

RETINOL

What it does: Simply put, it helps skin cells create better, healthier skin cells while increasing the amount of skin-support substances [and] has been shown to increase the skin’s collagen production and glycosaminoglycans content, resulting in firmer skin with an improved texture and enhanced barrier function.

Products to try:
BeautiControl Regeneration Overnight Retinol Recovery Serum, $45
RoC Multi-Correxion Night Treatment, $24.99

 

VITAMIN C

What it does: It has been shown to increase collagen production (including dermal collagen, which is significant for wrinkle reduction), reduce the appearance of skin discolorations, strengthen skin’s barrier response, enhance skin’s repair process, reduce inflammation and help skin better withstand exposure to sunlight, whether protected by sunscreen or not.

Products to try:
Dr. Brandt Lineless Vitamin C Serum, $75
Cosmedicine Triple P Serum Daily Advanced Care Antioxidant and Multi-Nutrient Treatment, $65

 

VITAMIN E

What it does: It works in several different ways including helping to protect cell membranes from oxidative damage and preventing collagen from being destroyed. It also works in powerful synergy with vitamin C. Vitamin E on an ingredient label may be listed as tocopheryl acetate, tocopheryl linoleate, tocotrienols, alpha tocopherol and tocopheryl succinate.

Products to try:
Mary Kay TimeWise Even Complexion Essence, $35
MAC Studio Moisture Fix SPF 15, $29.50
Paula’s Choice Skin Recovery Toner, $15.95

 

NIACINAMIDE

What it does: This component of vitamin B3 has been shown to increase ceramide and free fatty acid levels in skin, prevent skin from losing water content and stimulate microcirculation in the dermis. It also has a growing reputation for being able to lighten skin discolorations and reduce acne.

Products to try:
CeraVe Facial Moisturizing Lotion PM, $13.99
Olay Regenerist Regenerating Serum, $19.49

 

GREEN TEA

What it does: The antioxidant components work to reduce inflammation, build collagen and reduce cell damage by impeding the harmful effects of sun exposure. EGCG, when found in cosmetics, is a more potent, stable way to get the antioxidant benefit on skin.

Products to try:
Bobbi Brown Intensive Skin Supplement, $65
Olay Total Effects 7-in-1 Anti-Aging Booster Instant Smoothing Serum, $30.99

 

RESVERATROL

What it does: Like any antioxidant, resveratrol has incredible protective benefits for skin. When applied topically, resveratrol protects against sun damage, improves collagen synthesis and reduces cell damage. It is a stable, potent antioxidant worth finding in a skin care product.

Products to try:
ReserveAge Organics Resveratrol Cellular Age-Defying Tonic, $24.99
Caudalie Premier Cru La Crème, $150

 

GRAPE SEED

What it does: This antioxidant significantly reduces free-radical damage [and] combining it with other antioxidants greatly enhances its efficacy. It also has wound-healing properties. For fighting wrinkles, it is one of the top superstars.

Products to try:
Caudalie Paris Vinosource Riche Anti-Wrinkle Ultra Nourishing Cream, $50
Estee Lauder Perfectionist CP+ Wrinkle Lifting Serum, $55

 

CURCUMINOIDS

What it does: Found in the spice tumeric, it has potent anti-inflammatory properties, both internally and externally. It also works to suppress excess melanin production in the presence of sunlight and will help “chronic inflammation, irritation and sun damage that causes skin to look older and become less able to repair itself.

Products to try: Osmotics TriCeram, $32
Clinique Continuous Rescue Antioxidant Moisturizer, $42.50

 

SOY ISOFLAVONES/ EXTRACT

What they do: Soy and its components have an amazing amount of research showing them to be powerful antioxidants that are extremely beneficial for skin. Studies show that these derivatives inhibit environmental damage, reduce irritation, improve skin texture, build collagen and fight sun damage.

Products to try:
Replenix Purifying Antioxidant Foaming Cleanser, $23
Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Hydra-Pure Intense Moisture Cream, $150

 

CERAMIDES

What they do: They make up about 20 percent of the skin’s intercellular matrix, the ‘glue’ that holds skin cells together, [and] helping skin maintain its appearance while protecting it. When your skin suffers from sun damage, a dry environment or irritating skin care products, ceramides decrease, leaving the skin vulnerable, [therefore,] replenishing the skin’s ceramide content is a powerful way to protect skin, helping it act and look younger.

Products to try:
CeraVe Facial Moisturizing Lotion AM With SPF 30, $11.99
Elizabeth Arden Ceramide Gold Ultra Restorative Capsules, $68

 

LINOLEIC/ LINOLENIC ACIDS/ PHOSPHOLIPIDS

What they do: These fatty acids replenish the skin’s intercellular matrix, preserving its appearance. In addition she states that, all of them function as cell-communicating ingredients, working to ‘tell’ the appropriate skin cells how to function in a healthier manner. They also help reduce inflammation, believed to be a key factor in how the skin ages.

Products to try:
MD Formulations Moisture Defense Antioxidant Lotion, $50
Rodan + Fields Soothe Anti-Redness Skin Protectant Cream, $80

 

 

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The Consultation – Optional?

 

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I’d think not. But then again….

As esthetic students, the importance of conducting a consultation with new & old clients alike is very important. We are taught to include a consult, even a brief one with every client, even when practicing on each other or cosmetology students. EVERYONE had a form on file – if new, they had to complete a new form (front & back) and if repeaters, they had to look over their consultation form and update & initial for any changes.

The consult is key to determining the needs of the client because let’s face it, not everyone knows off the top of their head exactly what their skin needs or why they need it. A client with concerns about hydration might fail to realize all those highly fragranced face & body products are actually stripping their skin of moisture. A teen client with complaints of hairline breakouts might not make the connection between her hair products and those annoying blemishes. The consult allows us to find out key info about the clients daily regimen, diseases (if any) or special needs such joint pain and medications that might prevent them from receiving certain treatments or bring caution to allergic reactions with ingredients used.

A consultation takes place once the client completes the form that further establishes the treatment they will receive. Because what the client wants is not always what they need.

I had a client insisting on microdermabrasion for no other reason than her interest was peaked upon reading an article in a magazine. She had open blemishes from having picked at her skin and some acne scarring as well. She was excited about attending her brothers wedding in a few weeks and wanted to heal her skin fast. During our consult, I explained that microderm could further irritate her acne and positioned the benefits of a gentle peel instead. She agreed and returned to me for a facial the week before the wedding. Her skin showed great signs of improvement.

As I reflect on my own spa experiences over the last few decades, I don’t recall having detailed consults prior to a facial or even a peel I had at a med-spa shortly after beauty school. A brief convo took place (after I was on the bed) and the peel was applied, albeit it was a gentle peel but still! I was surprised by this and a little concerned actually.

While estheticians are not doctors, we are involved in the business of touch and there is a lot of responsibility involved in the machinery/tools used and ingredients applied to skin. Our business relies on customer satisfaction and if a bad reaction occurs, there goes business. Of course, everything can’t be controlled but knowledge and education are key. The more I know about my clients skin, habits, lifestyle and conditions – the better quality of service I am able to offer.

A consult is the key that holds all of that information and documentation of that information is my guide for treatment along with a method of protection for any reactions that might occur due to information not provided to me. No one wants to engage in a battle of ‘she said, she said’ in the treatment room.

So be sure to include consultations even after graduating from beauty school and working in the real world. It’s a source of credibility for you and a guide in the treatment process for your clients.

 

Sweet Pea

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