Aging. Kind of an ugly world in the beauty industry. Seems no one wants to embrace it and a big bulk of our business relies on helping clients fight it.
Fine lines, crows feet, sagging skin – none of these things are ever or will ever be trendy. Celebs lead the way in looking amazing for their age and the everyday woman wants the same results and will spend whatever it takes to achieve it. So as new beauty professionals, how can we become quickly familiar with what to offer and knowledgeable about what works?
Here are the top anti-aging ingredients to become familiar with and look for in effective products. Because skin care lines might look different in terms of packaging, marketing and price but as long as you have a solid understanding of the ingredient list, you can work confidently with any line:
AHA AND BHA
What it does: Smoothes the skin.
Best for: AHAs are best for normal-to-dry or sun-damaged skin because they help bind moisture and improve healthy collagen production and smooth an uneven skin texture. BHA is best for normal-to-oily or breakout-prone skin while also being excellent for reducing redness from rosacea.
Products to try:
DHC Renewing AHA Cream, $39
Olay Regenerist Night Resurfacing Elixir, $22.49
Neutrogena Oil-Free Acne Stress Control Night Cleansing Pads, $7.99
Paula’s Choice 1% Beta Hydroxy Acid Gel, $18.95
RETINOL
What it does: Simply put, it helps skin cells create better, healthier skin cells while increasing the amount of skin-support substances [and] has been shown to increase the skin’s collagen production and glycosaminoglycans content, resulting in firmer skin with an improved texture and enhanced barrier function.
Products to try:
BeautiControl Regeneration Overnight Retinol Recovery Serum, $45
RoC Multi-Correxion Night Treatment, $24.99
VITAMIN C
What it does: It has been shown to increase collagen production (including dermal collagen, which is significant for wrinkle reduction), reduce the appearance of skin discolorations, strengthen skin’s barrier response, enhance skin’s repair process, reduce inflammation and help skin better withstand exposure to sunlight, whether protected by sunscreen or not.
Products to try:
Dr. Brandt Lineless Vitamin C Serum, $75
Cosmedicine Triple P Serum Daily Advanced Care Antioxidant and Multi-Nutrient Treatment, $65
VITAMIN E
What it does: It works in several different ways including helping to protect cell membranes from oxidative damage and preventing collagen from being destroyed. It also works in powerful synergy with vitamin C. Vitamin E on an ingredient label may be listed as tocopheryl acetate, tocopheryl linoleate, tocotrienols, alpha tocopherol and tocopheryl succinate.
Products to try:
Mary Kay TimeWise Even Complexion Essence, $35
MAC Studio Moisture Fix SPF 15, $29.50
Paula’s Choice Skin Recovery Toner, $15.95
NIACINAMIDE
What it does: This component of vitamin B3 has been shown to increase ceramide and free fatty acid levels in skin, prevent skin from losing water content and stimulate microcirculation in the dermis. It also has a growing reputation for being able to lighten skin discolorations and reduce acne.
Products to try:
CeraVe Facial Moisturizing Lotion PM, $13.99
Olay Regenerist Regenerating Serum, $19.49
GREEN TEA
What it does: The antioxidant components work to reduce inflammation, build collagen and reduce cell damage by impeding the harmful effects of sun exposure. EGCG, when found in cosmetics, is a more potent, stable way to get the antioxidant benefit on skin.
Products to try:
Bobbi Brown Intensive Skin Supplement, $65
Olay Total Effects 7-in-1 Anti-Aging Booster Instant Smoothing Serum, $30.99
RESVERATROL
What it does: Like any antioxidant, resveratrol has incredible protective benefits for skin. When applied topically, resveratrol protects against sun damage, improves collagen synthesis and reduces cell damage. It is a stable, potent antioxidant worth finding in a skin care product.
Products to try:
ReserveAge Organics Resveratrol Cellular Age-Defying Tonic, $24.99
Caudalie Premier Cru La Crème, $150
GRAPE SEED
What it does: This antioxidant significantly reduces free-radical damage [and] combining it with other antioxidants greatly enhances its efficacy. It also has wound-healing properties. For fighting wrinkles, it is one of the top superstars.
Products to try:
Caudalie Paris Vinosource Riche Anti-Wrinkle Ultra Nourishing Cream, $50
Estee Lauder Perfectionist CP+ Wrinkle Lifting Serum, $55
CURCUMINOIDS
What it does: Found in the spice tumeric, it has potent anti-inflammatory properties, both internally and externally. It also works to suppress excess melanin production in the presence of sunlight and will help “chronic inflammation, irritation and sun damage that causes skin to look older and become less able to repair itself.
Products to try: Osmotics TriCeram, $32
Clinique Continuous Rescue Antioxidant Moisturizer, $42.50
SOY ISOFLAVONES/ EXTRACT
What they do: Soy and its components have an amazing amount of research showing them to be powerful antioxidants that are extremely beneficial for skin. Studies show that these derivatives inhibit environmental damage, reduce irritation, improve skin texture, build collagen and fight sun damage.
Products to try:
Replenix Purifying Antioxidant Foaming Cleanser, $23
Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Hydra-Pure Intense Moisture Cream, $150
CERAMIDES
What they do: They make up about 20 percent of the skin’s intercellular matrix, the ‘glue’ that holds skin cells together, [and] helping skin maintain its appearance while protecting it. When your skin suffers from sun damage, a dry environment or irritating skin care products, ceramides decrease, leaving the skin vulnerable, [therefore,] replenishing the skin’s ceramide content is a powerful way to protect skin, helping it act and look younger.
Products to try:
CeraVe Facial Moisturizing Lotion AM With SPF 30, $11.99
Elizabeth Arden Ceramide Gold Ultra Restorative Capsules, $68
LINOLEIC/ LINOLENIC ACIDS/ PHOSPHOLIPIDS
What they do: These fatty acids replenish the skin’s intercellular matrix, preserving its appearance. In addition she states that, all of them function as cell-communicating ingredients, working to ‘tell’ the appropriate skin cells how to function in a healthier manner. They also help reduce inflammation, believed to be a key factor in how the skin ages.
Products to try:
MD Formulations Moisture Defense Antioxidant Lotion, $50
Rodan + Fields Soothe Anti-Redness Skin Protectant Cream, $80
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